The Corkdork - Wine and Food Musing

New Restaurant Etiquette: Playing Cards During Dinner

Last night a group of us had a very good meal at Paley's in Portland, which would be called fine dining by anyone's standards. Early in the meal, while we were waiting for nettle pastas and escargots with marrow bones, we looked over at the four-top opposite us and they were playing a busy game of cards between courses! And then when their main course came, they didn't put the cards down, but continued to play. The only thing that interrupted their game play was a brief bit of their singing together every once in a while. While it was endless entertainment for us, it was distracting. All of us had been to hundreds and hundreds of fine restaurants and have never seen such behavior. I know Portland is a different kind of town, but this was a new one. The waiter said he has seen it before. From a thread about this over at Chowhound, it appears that in many states this can be construed as gambling and is actually illegal and can jeopardize the restaurant's liquor license. Have any readers out there ever seen this? Comments please!

Corkdork in Willamette

I'm here in Willamette Valley and Portland doing some serious eating and having some great appointments with winemakers. Unfortunately, I had to wipe my MacBook Pro a couple days before I left and installed Leopard OS 10.5,  and didn't realize that Leopard doesn't have iPhoto! I'll have a good flood of postings as soon as I return early next week with photos. I'll just leave you with the fact that this is a food obsessed town and there are some very serious wine people up here!  If you've never been, get on up!- CD 

Wine Blogging Wednesday #45 Old World Riesling

An excellent theme for this month's WBW, Old World Riesling, from one of the grand poobahs of the WBW, our own Tim Elliot from the Winecast. Thanks for hosting, Tim!

Riesling is a grape of the ancients, dating back to Roman times, but why has its universal appeal continued? I imagine what it must have been like to sit at a fine table five hundred years ago and why riesling was so attractive. I suspect the high-toned floral component and spice aromas,  along with a sweet muskiness,  must have been welcome amongst the other less savory smells that must have all around in those days. The onslaught of too-ripe meats and too-ripe people must have been pretty overwhelming, so a fragrant white wine would have been a fine thing to bury ones nose in to get away from it all.

Another miracle within the Riesling vine is the ability to grow in the harshest of winter climates. Riesling is grown in most northerly region that fine wine grapes can grow, which fosters great acidity. All the best grapes are grown on a south facing slope to suck in every last ray of sunshine. Terry Theise describes the slopes of Domprobst as impossibly steep. In fact, some vineyards are so steep they need small monorail trams to help workers move grapes down the hillside to the sorting table.

Picking German Wine

I'm the first to admit that picking a great German wine is pretty daunting. For me, I find the vineyard names difficult to memorize and like a lot of fine wines, the devils and the angels are in the details --in those vineyard names. A lot of producers make thousands of bottles of their lesser table wines and only a few hundred cases of their special small vineyard designates. To make matters worse, even the most famous of German vineyards, Piesporter and Bernkastel for instance, were synonymous with both greatness and cheap plonk for many years, especially the wines exported to the U.S. so it was only those in the know who were the dependable producers.  Fortunately, quality has improved greatly in the export market and we're now able to get even more spectacular wines from Germany.

If you're new to German wines, I recommend highly the section in the Karen MacNeil's Wine Bible on all things German. According to Karen MacNeil, the new stars of Germany include: Müller-Catoir, Fritz Haag, Willi Schafer, Lingenfelder, Gunderloch, Karlsmühle, and Dönnhoff. Certainly don't overlook Dr. Loosen, Egon Müller, Joh. Jos. Prüm, and Selbach-Oster.

On to Tasting Notes: 2006 Willi Schaefer Graacher Domprobst Kabinett Riesling

Extravagant nose with lots of earthy honey, challah/brioche, orange blossom and a touch of petrol. Perhaps a bit of green mint. The quivering acidity makes your tongue come alive and then it's soothed by the off-dry luscious coating. This is a wine that you can drink all night, and at 8.5 % alcohol, you might as well. Absolutely recommended. I immediately bought more of this, and the Auslese #14 after tasting this.

How to Read This German Wine Label:

1. Region: In this case the Mosel-Saar-Ruwer

2. Producer: In this case, one of the best producers in the Mosel-Saar-Ruwer

3. Year: 2006 was a difficult year for weather in Mosel, but in the hands of a good producer, results were excellent

4. Vineyard designation: In this case, the Graacher Domprobst is the main vineyard holdings of Willi Schaefer estate.

5. Sweetness level: Kabinett is the next to driest level of sweetness, so expect off-dry but not sweet.

6. Grape: Riesling
7. QmP designation showing this is a "quality wine with special attributes."

8. Alcohol: in this case, 8.5% which is 50% of the strength of that Paso zinfandel, and the equivelant of 2 strong Belgian beers.

South African Maverick: Eben Sadie of Sadie Family Wines

Last night, at the SF Wine Center,  I had a chance to meet a very special bi-hemispherical winemaker, Eben Sadie from Sadie Family Wines (pending website) who makes world-class wines both  in South Africa and in Priorat (Spain). His first love is South Africa, where he grew up and has access to long term leases on many tiny parcels of prime grapes. When I asked him if he owned these, he said in South Africa there are laws that prevent anyone from buying land that can not be deemed financially self-sustaining. In real terms, this means that while Eben can make enough wine from a single parcel of a hectare or two, it's only because his wines command high prices. The South African government is thinking in terms of regular agriculture, like wheat, where a parcel that small isn't financially significant.  This odd arrangement makes it easier for the mega producers to acquire land in big parcels. His African Home base is the Swartland region which stretches north of Cape Town, between Durbanville and Piketberg, inland from the Atlantic Ocean, centred on the town of Malmesbury.

Clearly a man that needs to stay moving all year round, he has set up a winery in Spain and is now starting to release single-vineyard Priorat wines bursting with old world charm and terroir --and fetching world-class prices for Spanish wines. He has acquired both land and leases for very old-vine Grenacha and Carignane plots and because of his experience in South Africa with Rhône grapes, he has a midas touch.

The majority of his wines are either organic or biodynamic but that's not enough for Eben. His dream is to make wines with as little mechanical intervention as possible in the future. He would like to be crushing en pied, pressing only in basket presses, and is already using gravity to move grapes and juice around the facility.  It will be interesting to see if he can balance this romantic vision of the ancient Roman winemaker with the market pressures to create more bottles. All of his wine is pre-sold in allocation as it is.

As usual, I'll only be commenting about the wines I really enjoyed, which in this case is all of them! Eben was kind enough to provide some technical data on some of the current releases.

Tasting and Technical Notes:

Palladius 2006 (White)
This was the first wine in the line-up and the moment I put the rim to my nose, I already judged it the best South African white I had ever had. Round and viscous with Chenin giving structure and the vioginer the high perfumes. Very delicious and recommended.
Vineyards: Swartland Paardeberg Mountain
Grapes : Chenin blanc 30%; Viognier 30%; Grenache Blanc 20%; Chardonnay 20%
Soils: Various – Granite & Gravel

Sequillo White 2006
This has an old world oiliness to it, probably from the Rousanne,  with a hint of Condrieu uncuousness, even though the very ripe Viognier is only 10% of the blend. Eben Sadie is very proud of this wine, but the 2007 is more what he's aiming for. I still really liked it.
Vineyards: Swartland Paardeberg Mountain
Grapes : Chenin blanc 65%; Grenache Blanc 15%; 10% Viognier,
10% Roussanne
Soils: Various – Granite & Gravel

Sequillo White 2007
The 2007 version of the Sequillo white has all the fruit of the 2006, but the early pick of the viognier brought the wine to a steel-edge focus. A remarkable balance, and another stunner S.A. White. Recommended.
Vineyards: Swartland Paardeberg Mountain
Grapes : Chenin blanc 65%; Grenache Blanc 15%; 10% Viognier,
10% Roussanne
Soils: Various – Granite & Gravel

Pinot Noir 2006
Vineyards: Elgin/Stellenbosch
Very dense cherry, drier fruit in the dark mid-palate. Light in color but is lovely and densely flavored. From 18 year old vines.

Sequillo Red 2004
Ripe and round but very pretty. Medium body with lots of Gigondas-like forest floor aromas.
Vineyards: Swartland Area
Grapes : Syrah 60%; Mourvedre 30%; Grenache 10%
Soils: Various – Granite & Gravel & Slate & Clay

Sequillo Red 2005
A bit spicier with a lot more grip. The first smells are that of a bright and herbaceous, with a hint of tarragon and mint. This was a big year, so the tannins and chewiness will do well with several years age.
Vineyards: Swartland Area
Grapes : Syrah 60%; Mourvedre 30%; Grenache 10%
Soils: Various – Granite & Gravel & Slate & Clay

Columella 2004 and 2005
In my first review of the 2004, I was really impressed with the 2004. The 2005 has more grip, even more blackberry bramble and lots of backbone. Though it's a bit backward now, up to 10 years will make this a stunner. Recommended.
Vineyards: Swartland Mountain Areas
Grapes : Syrah (80%) & Mourvèdre (20%)
Soils: Various – Granite – Slate – Clay – Gravel

Sadie Family Spain

The new releases of Priorat wines from Eben Sadie are amazing wines, indeed. The retail prices range from $87 to $140 US retail so they are at the high end of the range most Americans are used to paying for Spanish wines, so it should be interesting to see how they sell. Early word is they are a hit with restaurant wine buyers. Look for these to hit our shores in June 2008.

Terroir al Limit 2005
Very rich and ripe old vine Grenacha. Only 2000 bottles made. Tight now, but patience will pay off. Delicious.

Arbossar 2004
This is 80% Grenacha and 20% Cariagne from a high northern slope vineyard. Very distinctive aromas of Priorat rhone grapes, exploding with perfume on the nose. Tart and tight. My favorite of the three and highly recommended.

Dits del Terra 2004
This is very tight at this point and it had some chocolate aromas and a bit of spice. This I would like to re-taste in five or six  years. 

Julia and Me

I grew up in a household where every response to "Where's this recipe from?" was either simply Volume One or Volume Two. Mastering the Art of French Cooking, by Julia Child,  was the single driving force that elevated my family's eating habits, now going on influencing a third generation. My father took it upon himself to cook through hundreds of dishes in MTAFC  to teach himself to cook, and as life started to revolve around the kitchen more and more, I sat and watched at first, then joined in. Now my kids have grown up with classic dishes, like Carbonnades de Boeuf a la Flamande, that I gave up needing the recipe for 20 years ago.

Julia Child's posthumously published memoir, My Life in France, is a beautiful testament to her unfaltering joie de vivre and no matter how much of the book actually was penned by Julia herself, her voice and personality sparkle throughout.   There are times you can hear her cackle-y voice propelling syllables at you, half-winded, half-laughing.

I know it sounds strange, but many times as I read this book, I was struck with the chills as she described the first time she discovered a dish that has become part of my cooking DNA.

Thon à la Provençal is one such dish. When I was 8 years old or so, fish came in sticks. But the first time my father made this dish it filled the house with such amazing smells, I begged for a taste and I think it was tasting that exotic herbaceous tomato sauce the first time that woke me up to how wonderful food could be. He made it with swordfish, as fresh tuna was very hard to come by in the seventies, and for years, I would eat something kid friendly early in the evening with my brother, then again with my parents at eight o'clock or so to get more of that dish whenever he made it.

Hearing Julia describe her balcony view in Marseilles overlooking the harbor and her first encounter with a beautiful slab of tuna, just pulled in, her poaching it in tomatoes and herbs...I was transported back to our little dining room in Mt. Lakes, New Jersey and that first bite. 

After reading My Life in France, I couldn't help but pull out my copy of Volume One, which is completely falling apart (I got it for my birthday nearly 30 years ago) to refresh my memory on her writing style. Typical is her detailed article describing three ways to de-scum veal when you are making blanquette de veau, written in a matter of fact style at once funny, inviting and demystifying. I urge you to read this book and reflect upon the impact Julia Child (1912-2004) had on cooking in America, and at your house.

It's now available in paperback.

Tasting and Touring the San Francisco Wine Center

This evening I got a sneak preview of the newly opened San Francisco Wine Center, SOMA's unique combination of wine storage, tasting center, wine distribution center, and clubhouse. Owners Brian McGonigle and Paolo Mancini are industry insiders that are trying to create something different in San Francisco: a gathering place for the serious wine collector and the newbie. With two areas that will be used for formal tastings and informal open-a-bottle-with-friends gatherings, they hope it will allow lots of local wine geeks to mingle. Tastings will be largely like the one I was treated to today: wines that Indie Wines, the distribution wing, carry, hopefully along with the winemakers themselves. This will give an opportunity to learn first hand from the winemakers from as far away (like the upcoming event with Eben Sadie from South Africa) and get first crack at their wares. The storage area is like the one you are keeping those LPs that you can't seem to throw away (guilty as charged!) --only much colder! Check out their website for all the pricing details. Like any storage facility they have lots of different options and incentives.

As for Indie Wines, they are bringing in some good stuff to the picture as well. I had a chance to taste a few wines with them this evening. Here are my favorites.

2006 Greenwood Ridge Sauvignon Blanc, Mendocino County
This has so much Semillon in it that you might think it's not SB at all. It has the floral character of a cold-weather Viognier with  lime-tinged roundness in the mouth. This is not the wine to grab when you want a grassy Cloudy Bay knockoff, it's just a different, but very delicious beast altogether.

2005 J. K. Carriere Pinot Noir, Willamette Valley, Oregon
Lots of bright cherry fruit and forest floor on the nose, bright on the nose, but brooding on the tongue. Delicious but I'm looking forward to this with a couple more years on the bottle.

2003 Temple Bruer Shiraz/Malbec blend, Langhorn Creek, Australia
Something completely different than your garden variety Aussie glug. The heavy dose of Malbec makes this a pretty wild-smelling wine. Plenty of wood going on as well. The vineyards have long been organic and sustainable and the result is clean and complex with good grip.

2006 Schild Estate Barossa Shiraz
Very spicy and young, bright and ready to be put down for a few years of rest. Very new world with deft dose of oak. Nice and well priced.

2004 Columella, Sadie Family, Swartland, South Africa
The best of the flight, especially after an hour of so in the decanter. It is a Syrah dominated blend but the rest of the components are a mystery that maybe Eben can reveal himself when he visits. Huge mouthfeel and filled with ripe New World fruit, the blend of 25 parcels of grapes is extremely artful. My comment at the event was that I would like to see this wine in a few years when the makeup fades a bit. Recommended.

2001 Tom Eddy Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa Valley
This is a blend of several Napa parcels and the result is very pleasurable indeed. There is a touch of bramble, tobacco and cocoa on the nose with a very big, classy mouthfeel. Slick and drinkable now. Recommended

The Pleasure of Inexpensive Chardonnay: Paraiso Chardonnay 2003, Santa Lucia Highlands

Just a quick post about a wine I found at BevMo a few weeks ago and couldn't resist. I really don't buy that much wine that I haven't tasted before, but they had a crazy sale: buy one bottle and get another for a nickel. What made me grab it was its Central Coast Santa Lucia Highlands provenance. I'm getting more convinced that the climes of the Central Coast are under appreciated, especially with Pinot, Syrah, and Chardonnay. In the case of Chardonnay, the cool weather leads to lovely tropical notes.

Paraiso's owners, The Smith family, who has been growing and making wine for more than 30 years, were leaders in the creation of the Santa Lucia Highlands AVA in 1991. They now have over 150,000 vines on 3,000 acres of SLH property. This lends itself to high yields and relatively low prices.

Normally, the Chardonnay runs around $17 a bottle, so at 2 bottles for $15 at BevMo, it was a steal. Too bad it seems it's all gone. Look for the current release of 2005.

Tasting notes:

2003 Paraiso Chardonnay, Santa Lucia Highlands

Upon first opening this, especially when it is cold, the oak on the nose is pretty strong, but after some time in the glass and it warms up a bit, the oak turns out to balance out the lemon, pineapple, and tropical aromas nicely. The acidity is also well balanced and made a good foil for one of our family staples, chicken schnitzel over salad with mustard vinegarette. This is good solid Chardonnay for every day drinking.

Searching for Sonoma Syrah: Leo Steen 2005

It's not often that I get turned on to a wine that has a little mystery behind it. I was in my old neighborhood in San Francisco the other day and popped in to say hello to Gary over at the San Francisco Wine Trading Company. I had him pick out a couple of bottles for me and I asked him for a nice big syrah I could have for dinner that night. He walked over to the Cal Syrah section and as soon as he spied this one, he said I had to try it. First the notes, then the rest of the story.

2005 Leo Steen Sonoma Mountain Syrah

First of all, let me say I loved this wine. It also would pop out at any tasting, as it has a more distinct aroma of cloves than any wine I've ever experienced. Meaty and viscous, this Syrah has a lift of blackberry bramble-y brightness around a firm spicy core. It has an excellent balance between the ripe juicy fruit from the 900 ft. elevation at Scala Estate, oak, and acid. The wine is unfined and unfiltered with minimal intervention and it shows. Drinking very well now, I am curious to see what this will do in another 5 years. $27.00

After I looked at the winery website, which consists of a single paragraph and a PDF order form, my interest was piqued. Either he is so busy that he can't get a proper site up with some background on the grapes and winemaker himself, or he has some non-compete clause preventing him from doing too much of his own publicity. I dare say that he will have no trouble selling out of this wine, as I understand he made only 46 cases (2 barrels). So after more searching, there is no Leo Steen, but instead this wine is made by Leo Hansen, winemaker at Stuhlmuller Vineyards. Hansen, who grew up in Denmark in a food-trade family, became a certified European sommelier and was sent to the U.S .on a buying trip for Kong Hans Restaurant in Copenhagen. (Check out the prices! $90 entrees!) In 2000, he decided to move to Sonoma and landed work at Clos du Bois, then later, Chateau Souvrain. After working with Stuhlmuller fruit at Clos du Bois and Souvrain, he moved on to working in the cellars at Stuhlmuller and in 2004 became winemaker.

We should all keep our eyes out for this very talented winemaker. I'm going to seek out some of his other efforts as soon as I finish this post!

Wine Blogging Wednesday #44: French Cabernet Franc

Once again, it's Wine Blogging Wednesday and this month's host needs little introduction for anyone that has followed the wine blog and vlog scene of the last couple of years, Gary Vayerchuk. His reviews are sometimes sweet, sometimes salty, usually peppery, and always entertaining. The theme for the month? Cab Franc from France, which to me says Loire Valley, specifically Chinon.

I'm hoping that I picked one that is a little less well known, at least for those of us who shop at Kermit Lynch, who always has a good supply of the Charles Jouget Chinons.  Instead of a Jouget, I picked a wine from another maverick winemaker, Bernard Baudry. Those of you in the trade that live in Chicago or New York can meet him on April 14 (Chicago) and April 15 (NYC). Check here for details.

Chinon Les Grézeaux 2004, Bernard Baudry

This is made from the oldest planted parcel of his three wines, with 50 year old vines on average. It spends 1 year in oak that is is 3-5 years old for a dose of that old wood funk. Tasting notes:

This wine exhibits the classic character of Loire Cab Franc - warts and all. By this I mean that many Loire reds suffer from a wild weediness that when consumed on its own distracts from the flavor of the fruit. What every bistro owner in Paris knows though, is that when consumed with food, especially something like classic Steak Frites with lots of pepper, the general herbaceousness can compliment fat and spice.

The first thing that hits your nose is smoke, sweet old oak, wet stones, and maybe a little wet sock. With an hour or so in the glass, these give way to more pepper, mushroom and forest floor.

On the tongue, it's got plenty of acid and a very Old World kind of dried fruit flavor. It tastes more mature than its 4 years and has little in the way of the fresh fruit of say, a Spring Mountain AVA Cab Franc from Napa or even a Cab Franc from Bordeaux. It's really its own beast, so open it expecting something light in body, lifted with herbs, and plenty of tannins.

Tiny Shining Star: Matthiasson Wines: 2005 Napa Valley Red and 2006 Napa Valley White

I got a nice note with an offer to taste the wares of this very special family the other day, and got some 375 ml samples the next day. And what a treat when I opened them up tonight. The name Steve Matthiasson  (pronounced ma-thahy-uh son) may not roll off the tongue easily, but it should ring a few bells - and these wines should make the phones ring. As a viticulturist, he has worked his farming magic on over 30 high end vineyards for top wineries, including R.H. Phillips. With his wife Jill Klein, they own the Napa Fruit Company and this winery whose output is currently at around 240 cases. Mini-micro sensibilities with a careful and hands-off approach makes for some great, complex wines.

2006 Matthiasson Napa Valley White Wine

The first thing that hits your nose is this is no ordinary Napa White. The only thing I've smelled lately that comes even close is the iClivi wines of Fruili. Huge honey, citrus flowers, and faintly mushroomy, this is a blend of Sauvignon blanc, Ribolla gialla and Tokai friulano --not your everyday garden Napa varietals. It is such a beautiful fresh scent and so unusual that you keep coming back to the glass trying to figure out what's in it. Oh, and it tastes absolutely delicious. Highly recommended.

2005 Napa Valley Red Wine

When I first pulled the cork, immense amounts of sediment were on the cork and I knew this was some serious unfiltered juice.  I don't have any information on what is in this, but I'm guessing that it is mostly Merlot, some Cab Franc and Cabernet, perhaps with a dose of Petite Syrah in there. (I'm sure they will correct this!)  The nose is as complex as Fernet Branca - crazy earthiness, menthol, blueberries, --wow. The flavor is quite dark in the mid-palate and finish, and shows this is a very meaty wine, ready to put down for a few more years. The tannins are up-front but a great drink now. Again, highly recommended.

Loire Valley Wine Bureau Sauvignon Blanc Tasting Wrap-up

I was very pleased to get invited to last week's tasting in San Francisco of Sauvignon Blancs, mostly from 2006, organized by the Loire Valley Wine Bureau.  Similar tastings are coming up if you're in the trade in Boston, New York, and Chicago. See their website for more information.

As usual, in the interest of keeping the info-noise to a minimum, I'm just going to call out the ones that I was most impressed with. Really, there wasn't a dog in the bunch, but although the styles of many Sancerres are similar, some did really stand out. I've already bought a few of them since the tasting over at the Wine House.

Sancerre Henri Bourgeois Grand Réserve 2006 - round with a very earthy, dark finish, almost tarry.

Sancerre Daniel Chotard 2006 - this had a surprising bit of orange peel on the nose. At Kermit Lynch

Pouilly Fumé Régis Minet Vielles Vignes 2005 - very light bodied, nicely smokey. Also at Kermit Lynch.

Pouilly Fumé Domaine Eric Louis 2005 - very earthy and full of dense minerality

Pouilly Fumé Domaine des Berthiers Cuvée D'Eve 2005 - made by the father of Loire rebel Didier Dagueneau, Jean Claude Dagueneau and named for his mother, Eve. This is a really fine Fumé, loads of terroir and beautiful ripeness from the old vines grown high up on the slopes. One of my favorites.

Sancerre Domaine Hubert Brochard Unfiltered 2006 - rich and unctuous with explosive minerals. Another favorite.

Pouilly Fumé Domaine Alain Cailbourdin Les Cris 2006 - Named for the pebbles (I think cris is slang or regional French) in the soil, this one had a hint of baked gingersnaps and smoke - very interesting.

Sancerre Domaine Thomas et Fils Ultimus 2006 - all lime soil and 50-70 year old vines, this wine was fussed over and it shows, the body super creamy. Recommended. At the Wine House.

Quincy Jean-Claude Roux 2006 - This was smokier than most of the Quincy, and my favorite.

Pouilly Fumé Claude Michot Les Berthiers 2006 - Very fragrant with stones and flint. Lemony tartness dominates.

Nice Video about the 13 Grapes of Chateauneuf du Pape

Just a quick link to a video sent to me by my friend Fabrice who has the amazing job of sommelier for the Perrin's at Beacuastel.

13 Grapes of Chateauneuf du Pape

Enjoy!

The Sweet In & Out Hendrick's Martini

Tonight, I wanted a nice bone-dry Hendrick's martini and was out of white vermouth! I've known about "perfect" martinis for years --1/2 sweet and 1/2 dry vermouth, but I decided to try a variation of my normal 'in-and-out Martini" by using sweet vermouth to coat the ice instead. It is a really wonderful combination and the cucumber garnish brings out the magic of the cuke infusion of Hendrick's.

Hendrick's Sweet In & Out

Fill a cocktail shaker with as much ice as will fit in your old-fashioned glass. Toss in a big splash of red vermouth (I used Martini and Rossi) and stir vigorously to coat the ice. Dump out the sweet vermouth and add 2-1/2 oz. of Hendrick's Gin. Stir with your bar spoon and pour into an old-fashioned. Garnish with a wedge of cucumber or two. (a word to the wise...if you want to serve this over ice, eat the cucumber pretty quickly as it turns very icy quickly!) Yum!

WBW#43: Comfort Wines: Olson Ogden Syrah 2005

Wine Blogging Wednesday #44 Comfort Wines

This month's theme, thanks to Joel at Wine Life Today, has been surprisingly thought provoking. For the last week, I've been wondering what makes a wine comforting. Is it a wine you want to  sink your nose in after a bad day? Or a wine that sparks with nostalgia? Is it fatty and plump like a mature merlot, or is it to be lean and leggy, like a great Loire white?

Ultimately, I decided that for me, a wine that is pure comfort should be that reliable bottle that you can count on to be consistently great each time you open it. It should be round and complete with the edges artfully sanded off. Certainly, it should be a wine you are always proud to serve. And, of course, it should be just plain delicious.

As I picked though my cellar looking for something to fill the bill, I had two immediate thoughts. My first reaction was to grab a great mature zinfandel. I had a 2000 Tin Barn Jensen Vineyards in my hands. Good zinfandel was the first thing I started to collect, the first wines I bought futures in, and despite my wandering eonophilic eye --tempted by the fruit of other grapes, I still maintain a large supply of excellent zins.

But alas, WBW is a weeknight event and the thought of having leftover Tin Barn made me shudder. So I grabbed something else that fit the bill perfectly. Sonoma County Syrah.

2005 Olson Ogden Syrah, Sonoma

Tim Olson makes a quintessential American Syrah. In this case American is a euphemism for tastefully oaked. Though I do occasionally look downunder for a bit of Shiraz, most of the non-American syrah I drink is French, and the vast majority of the French syrah I drink is made in giant wood or cement foudres and rarely touches oak. The lack of oak, especially Southern Rhônes, yields the angularity I often seek out for the spark of interest, not necessarily pure comfort.

On the nose, there is a bramble character to it, --both the berry and a bit of stem, along with a controlled whiff of toasted vanilla from the 17% new French Oak treatment. The mouth feel is round with just the right balance between fruit and acid, so it avoids flabbiness.   148 cases made. Around $25.00 US.

Find this wine, buy it, drink it, and be comforted by it.

As an aside, I was thrilled to read in their new blog that they have moved their operations back to Sebastapol, near my friend Fred Scherrer's winery.

The Ojai Vineyard Chardonnay Bien Nacido 2005

Sometimes I feel I'm the last defender of California Chardonnay. Sure, I dislike the cheap oak-chip soaked stuff in the supermarket as much as you, but it's become a bit of a mission for me to seek out great Cal Chard lately. Partly, this is self preservation, as we drink a lot of white wine at my house and we can't drink Chassagne Montrachet every night. Now more than ever, with the Euro at hopefully it's peak, is the time to start seeking out high quality American Chardonnay.

Naturally, I'm here to tell you this is one of them.

I've gushed about the output of the Bien Nacido property before, but this one is really unusual. I would urge you to read the refreshingly honest winemaker notes on their site about this wine. The notes convey the struggle with a difficult batch of acidic fruit and the efforts to transform a struggling wine into something unusual and ultimately delicious.

This wine possesses almost a shocking acidity. If you are buying just by label shopping and rightly so, picking up the 2005 Bien Nacido offering on name and history only, you may expect something round and ripe with typical BN aromatics. But this one is different.

On the nose, you get the hit of vanilla from generous new oak barrel fermentation, but on the tongue, it's an explosion of pineapple and lemon tartness. It's a yin and yang kind of wine where you get the hit of New World treatment with some Old World pucker.

Highly recommended, especially with something like a quickly cooked wild coho salmon like we had tonight.